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How to grow a violet from a leaf at home

How to grow a violet from a leaf at home


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Violet is a rather unpretentious plant and many novice growers who want to have these wonderful flowers in their collection ask the question "Is it possible, and if possible, how to grow a violet from a leaf?"

Content:

  • How to grow a violet from a leaf
  • Typical germination errors
  • Rooting phase errors
  • Landing phase errors
  • Errors of the stage of planting young Saintpaulias
  • Care

This process is not too troublesome, but it requires the fulfillment of certain conditions so that the violet has good roots and takes root in a new place without any problems. For beginner flower growers, experienced amateurs are advised to do this procedure in the spring and summer.

How to grow a violet from a leaf

  1. The ends of the violet stem should be cut obliquely and the leaves should be set so that they do not touch the bottom of the glass.
  2. You need to germinate the leaves in dark opaque cups (for example, from under yogurt), pouring settled or filtered water (not running). Place the cups in a warm, bright place.
  3. After the roots appear, the leaf can and should be transplanted into loose soil. It is more convenient to use disposable cups or yogurt cups for this, after having made holes for drainage with a hot awl or a large needle.
  4. On the bottom of the glass, first put a little expanded clay, pieces of polystyrene, sphagnum moss, then pour the potting soil.
  5. Having made a small hole in the ground, carefully place a leaf with roots (no deeper than 1 cm) there, sprinkle it with earth without tamping and pour it with settled or filtered warm water.
  6. Cover the pot with a leaf with plastic wrap or a glass jar.

The stalk is best planted at a 45-degree angle (face up) so that sprouted babies (small plants) are not shaded by the leaf.

Typical germination errors

To avoid common mistakes encountered by beginner growers, check out some of them.

Rooting phase errors

It happens that the brought leaf wilted a little on the way home. Then, before rooting, it must be immersed in warm water for two hours so that it becomes elastic. After that, with a sterile, sharp razor, you need to update the oblique cut, leaving about 3 cm of the cutting.

Several cuttings can be placed in an opaque container. But make sure that they do not touch the bottom. You can stretch a plastic wrap on top of the jar, in which holes are made for the leaves. But it is preferable to keep the cuttings separately: if one of them decays, you will avoid spoiling the others.

For rooting, it is better to take soft water. You can rain or thawed, as well as distilled, boiled, settled and well. The opinion that boiled water lacks essential nutrients is erroneous, since the leaf does not need any nutrition at this stage. For root formation, everything you need is contained in itself.

There is no need to change the water, you just need to add it as it evaporates. Roots will begin to form in three weeks. You can go to the planting stage from the moment you reach a length of 1.5-2 cm.

Landing phase errors

When planting cuttings from leaves, the most common mistakes are:

  • Very "greasy", abundantly fertilized and airtight soil.

For safety reasons, we present the composition of the substrate for Saintpaulias: sphagnum (cut bog moss) - 2 parts; peat (not sour) - 2 parts; rotted leafy ground (better from under the linden) - 1 part; coniferous land (preferably pine) - 1 part; garden land (sifted, without humus) - 1 part; river sand (not fine, medium or large) - 1 part; a piece of charcoal in each pot.

  • Deepening of the cutting when planting is more than 1-1.5 cm. Deep planting makes it difficult for young leaves to germinate into the light. To keep the leaf well at a shallow depth, it is attached with a stick or straw.
  • Optimal germination temperature and light conditions are not observed. Provide plants with a temperature of about 24-26 degrees and ambient light.
  • Drainage is not provided, the water is in the pot, not seeping out. Check for drain holes, do not fill young plantings.

It is possible to separate young people when 3-5 leaves grow in them, and they reach a third of the size of the mother's leaf. They are carefully separated and planted separately.

Errors of the stage of planting young Saintpaulias

At the stage of planting young Saintpaulias, a typical mistake is choosing an oversized pot. As a rule, the plant cannot master a large earthen lump. The roots rot and the plant may die. Young Saintpaulia rosettes should be planted in pots 4-5 cm in diameter, and only six months later, increase the pot to 8 cm.

For young plants (and there can be from 1 to 20 of them on one leaf), the same earthen substrate is used as for the germination of leaves. You can only add a little superphosphate - 2 tbsp. spoons on a bucket of land mixture.

Top dressing is needed only during the period of bud formation. The concentration of liquid fertilizers is made 3 times less than indicated by the manufacturer.

Care

We have already written about the care of Saintpaulias, their requirements for lighting and watering, as well as the feeding regime, the materials can be found here.

So, it is very easy to grow Saintpaulias from leafy cuttings, it is worthwhile to follow the recommendations step by step and beware of the above mistakes. Good luck to you!


Watch the video: African Violets....... pulling babies and planting #1 (May 2022).